It's December in Kakadu, the time of the monsoon build up: the Traditional Owners call it Gunumeleng. Humidity is almost 100 per cent and temperatures are between 40 and 50 degrees. It's like walking around in hot water. Everything struggles: animals, plants and humans too. Water is running out, the flood plains are cracked desert landscapes, and the sky is black with huge thunderhead clouds that split the dry ground with lightning, but produce little rain. Madness is in the air and predatory animal instinct as well.